Engine Teardown from longblock (complete) to shortblock (bare).
Shortblock format as shown here is generally what rebuilders (myself included) require a core to be. If you donít feel comfortable handling this part, I am one of the few rebuilders who will accommodate this part for you. As stated on the price list, the charge is an additional $150 on top of rebuild costs.
(this writeup applies specifically to 86-88 NA engines, other models similar in procedure).
1. remove ac/ps bracket and mount engine on stand (though this can be done on a floor or driveway though not as easily and with risk of damage).
remove intake elbow. Disconnect TPS and 2 ACV plugs. Disconnect oil
metering pump rod. Disconnect 3 vacuum hoses on front of manifold. Loosen
the 12mm bolts holding the upper intake to the bracket underneath (drivers
side, 1 in front 2 in rear). Remove the coolant hose from the front
of the BAC, as well as the BAC electrical connector. Disconnect the
vacuum hose under the BAC, the wires for the intake air sensor, and
AWS solenoid connector and hose. Disconnect 2 vacuum hoses in rear,
and the coolant hose to the thermowax/throttlebody from the block. Disconnect
02 sensor wire, and front ad rear fuel lines (to secondary fuel rail).Disconnect
the secondary injector connectors, the vacuum line to the fuel pressure
regulator (on fuel rail). Unbolt the 10mm bolt holding the vacuum rail
assembly to the lower intake manifold on the rear. Unbolt he 5 12mm
bolts/nuts holding the intake on, and remove the upper/middle intake
as a whole.
3. Disconect 2 vacuum hoses from lower intake manifold (LIM). Remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the fuel rail on, and the 3 12mm bolts holding the drivers side of the vacuum rail on the engine. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the vacuum rail to the LIM behind the air pump. Disconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR valve. Disconnect the wire to the temp. sending unit under the oil filter. Disconnect the hose from the oil filler tube to the purge valve. Remove the plug from the alternator, and the plug that goes to the temp sensor in the water pump housing (on backside, green), as well as (if equipped) the wire for the sensor in the thermostat neck. Pull the vacuum rack with injectors and wires off as a whole, carefully, being careful not to damage wires or injectors.
4. Remove dipstick and oil cap. Remove 10mm bolt holding on the metal clip. Remove the oil vent hose, the heater hose on the drivers side, the oil filter stand (2 10mm nuts underneath), oil pressure sending unit (brass round sensor, 14mm hex), and temp sending unit (12mm deepwell).Remove flywheel (2-1/8Ē) and key. Remove EGR valve. Remove coolant hose on top of rear iron. Remove vacuum splitter/hoses to the 4 oil injectors, and the single vacuum hose going to the nipple on the LIM.
5. Remove 2 oil injectors from block (vise grips), be VERY careful with these, you break them they are not repairable. Remove 6 12mm nuts/bolts from LIM (2 are underneath/inside). Remove airpump hose. Remove the bracket on the waterpump housing that holds the oil injector lines. Remove the 4 10mm banjo bolts from the OMP to release the OMP lines. Keep track of all the crush washers, 5 in total. Remove the OMP, 2 10mm bolts. Slowly remove the OMP with lines, carefully. Remove the 6 port sleeves from the block, use pliers if they stick, rotating them as you pull. Remove exhaust shields and exhaust manifold† with gasket.
6. Remove crank angle sensor (CAS) with 10mm nut. Remove the 4 10mm bolts and 3 front pullies. Remove 4 12mm NUTS and 1 12mm BOLT from the water pump to separate the water pump HOUSING from the engine, the water pump stays on the housing (2 12mm bolts hold it here and can be left in place). Remove the waterpump housing complete with alternator and airpump slowly. Note 2 washer shims on the studs farthest from the drivers side. Remove and save them.
7. Remove left and right motor mounts with brackets (17mm), oilpan and pickup. The engine is now stripped to shortblock (bare block) format and ready for shipment.