First off, let’s go over some of the basics of rebuilt rotary engines. They are very different from rebuilt piston engines. Rebuilt rotaries often run somewhat poorly upon first startup. How they run later in life is highly dependent on how they get broken in for the first 2000 miles or so. Rotaries are pretty weak as far as starting, power, and response during the breakin period. They build up their power level the more they run, and must be broken in easily to run well later, which is the opposite of what is common knowledge about piston engine rebuilds.

There are 2 basic types of rebuilt rotaries: those that utilize new rotor housings, and those that use old/original ones. These housings perform a similar function to cylinder bores in a piston engine, they provide the smooth surface for compression. The better the surface, the better the engine’s compression and overall strength/smoothness. Rotor housings are not machineable/surfacable, so you either use what you have or get new ones. Many of the more expensive rebuild shops use (or claim to) new rotor housings standard, which reflects the roughly $1000+ pricing difference from my engines’ cost. All of my engines receive good/useable original rotor housings, thus the large savings you receive. These engines still develop to be very strong and reliable, with a life expectancy of 75-100k miles depending on maintenance/driving habits. I have seen final compression numbers reach 120psi, with mazda spec for a NEW rotor housing engine being 125psi.

Many people come to me looking for a cheap engine designed to put out high horsepower numbers. I regard high power as being over 200hp in NA form, or 250 in forced induction/sprayed form. I certainly applaud these individuals, but I wish to make it clear that I do not and will not build a race engine, or an engine modified for a high level of abuse. What I can build for you is essentially a stock powerplant with (if desired) some porting modifications. If you require a race/high-performance engine, a show-quality polished/painted engine, or a new-spec engine, I would recommend you research some of the higher priced shops, who specialize in this type of work.

The Build:
All of my engines are built on a per-order basis, meaning that I do not have any stock on the shelf. There is approximately a 2 week wait between the time I receive your initial deposit and the time I ship the engine out.

ALL of my engines receive the following:
-new VITON oil o-ring inserts (atkins rotary)
-new atkins 2piece 2mm apex seals (upgrade from stock)
-new gasket kit (includes internal coolant rings and dowel o-rings, as well as all external paper gaskets, engine/exhaust gaskets, crush washers, etc.) Note that this kit does NOT include injector o-rings or grommets, or any other rotor/internal parts.
-alternating paint scheme, irons in black (or a color of your choosing) and rotorhousings/front cover in aluminum/silver. All paints used are high-grade engine enamel, and all painting is done while the engine is disassembled (hey, I have had people ask).

Options:
Available as optional (but not standard, or really even performance enhancing) are:
-FD (93+) corner seal springs $30 option
-front and rear main seal (these are usually in almost perfect condition) $20 option
-pineapple racing sleeves, $55 option (6 port engines only, discussed below)
Other options may be installed at customers request. Options such as oil pups, oil pressure regulators, etc. can be installed, but must be purchased and shipped in by the customer. I can even install new rotor housings upon request, but I cant get much of a discount on these, so cost will still rise almost $900 including shipping.

Streetporting:
Also available is streetporting. Streetporting (Sp) is an internal intake/exhaust modification that can only be performed while the engine is disassembled. It is similar to swapping cams on a piston engine, it affects airflow (think lift) and timing (think duration). SP’ing is to be regarded as any other airflow mod (like air filter or exhaust mod) as far as power increases go. A large Sp on a stock car, for instance, might not be as noticeable as a small Sp on a modified car. Sp’ing doesn’t really change your idle ability, though a large SP can change idle tone a bit. IT does affect your driveability, mainly your low end pull. Especially, for instance, pulling out on a steep hill from a dead stop. For those of you who have installed a lightweight flywheel on a stock car, the difference a large Sp will make to your low end is similar. The gains on top end are definitely worth the risk, however. Gains from an Sp on a nonturbo are not large, but still worthwhile, around 5-15hp depending on mods. Gains on a turbo model are usually quite a bit higher, anywhere from 10-25hp+ depending on mods.

At this time I basically offer 2 “sizes” of porting, small and large. The small port can produce gains of 5-10hp on an NA motor, and 5-15hp on a turbo motor, depending on other mods. The larger version can produce 10-15hp on an NA motor, and 10-25hp on a turbo engine, again depending on mods. The small port is basically some intake porting with very light exhaust porting, and the larger port receives more of each.

The “6th Port Streetport”:
I have recently developed a special version of SP unique to the 6 port nonturbo engines (84-91 13B). This port allows for a nice top end power increase with absolutely NO decrease in low end pull, driveability, or even emissions testing. This is accomplished by only porting the 5th and 6th intake ports, and a very light exhaust port. The “lower” 4 intake ports, responsible for idle and low rpm driving remain untouched, and so do the normal driving characteristics of the engine. Only at/above 3800rpm, when the auxiliary ports open, does the porting take effect and move more air through. No emissions test that I am aware of, even the dyno/roll test, pushes the engine to the point where the auxiliary ports open, therefore this is a good way to “hide” your performance gains from the emissions test. For those who don’t care about this, I can/do still port all the ports of a 6 port engine. I highly recommend the pineapple racing 6th port sleeves to compliment any streetport on a nonturbo engine.

Porting Prices:
Small SP $100
Large Sp $200
6PI Sp $200 (pineapple sleeves available for $55 more to compliment the port)Bare block/Long block:
A short block is basically the engine in it’s purest form, only the 5 engine plates and the front cover, with the front pulley hub/boss only. No oil pan, no flywheel, no water pump, etc. This is what all engine rebuilders sell, and nowhere can you buy a rebuild with everything included on the engine. IF you are shipping in a core, it is generally accepted/requested that it be in short block form.

Many people are not comfortable with removing and then reinstalling all the manifolds, wiring, etc. that make the difference between long block (complete) and short block (bare block). The rotary has a very complicated EFI/control system, and this is understandable. How well this phase of the install is completed is directly related to how easily/well the new engine starts and runs.

For this reason, many people ask if I can do this phase as well. I gladly do so for an additional $150 service charge (this is about 4+ hours of labor when done properly).