1) Remove hood from car. Remove battery. Remove intake snorkel, air box WITH airflow meter (disconnect the afm plug), and intake hose.


2) Drain coolant from radiator AND block (hex plug above drivers motor mount), remove upper radiator hose, fan (use a flathead screwdriver and a 10mm wrench for this), fan shroud, lower radiator hose and heatercore hose, and radiator.



3) Remove cruise control if equipped ( you may leave it attatched to the throttle body), slide charcoal canister up and tie it back out of the way. Remove (forcefully if necessary) the subzero starting assist bottle and it's line (can be cut at the engine and left open, the valve does not open or create a vacuum leak) and throw them away. Disconnect the vacuum line to the firewall for the brakes and the ground wire from the transmission to the firewall. Disconnect the air pump/acv exhaust hose, and the pressure sensor vacuum hose. Disconnect the wiring harness from the pressure sensor, variable resistor, etc.



4) remove passengers side kick panel cover, and pull back the carpet to expose a metal panel. Remove the panel (4 10mm screws) and expose the ecu. Unplug the engine wiring harness from the ecu/car harness, and pull it through the firewall leaving it connected to the engine as a whole. There are 2 plugs on the ECU, 1 4 wire white plug in the kick panel (at. press. sensor), and 2 large orange plugs farther up in the kick panel. IT is sometimes necessary to break the plastic clips holding these up inside the car so you can pull them down and gain access to disconnect them, do not hesitate to do this. On s4 turbo models, there is another 4 wire white plug farther up inside the panel, to the knock control box. On s5 models, there is no at. press. sensor to disconnect.




5) Disconnect slave cylinder(from transmission, NOT the hose), power steering lines, oil sending unit wire, heatercore hose on drivers side (be prepared for more water here), plugwires, throttle cable, fuel lines, wires going to oilpan sensors, power steering rubber reservoir hose (bottom of pump), and p/s and a/c control wires. Expect to cut some zipties here. Remove p/s and a/c belts(to gain access to the oil cooler line later).


6) Disconnect front oil cooler line. Use a *thin wall* adjustable wrench or 21mm wrench, in combination with a large adjustable wrench, and 1 or 2 long pipes to break it loose. It is important to hold the smaller 21mm nut stationary while breaking the larger one loose, or damage to the line can occur. I use a long bar rested on the radiator support for this, while I work on the larger nut.


7) From this point, there are 2 ways to proceed...pull the transmission with the engine, or leave it in and pull the engine alone. I am providing instructions to pull the trans out. I find it much easier to pull the trans. out of the car with the engine, and do the separating/realignment outside on the floor (<5 minutes) rather than trying to do so in the car during reinstallation (30 minutes +). IF you are leaving the trans. in the car, then most of these steps will not apply.


Put the car on jackstands and remove the exhaust. I do so as a whole from front to back, but you can do so however you see fit. Remove the shifter from inside the car. Remove the exhaust shields, and drain the transmission fluid (unless you have a method to control fluid spillage from the tailshaft). Disconnect the starter and transmission wiring, but leave the starter on the tranny. Remove the driveshaft. Unbolt the 14mm nuts on the motor mounts *inside their round holes on the frame*.

Disconnect the rear oil cooler line (15/16" fits well)..be prepared for oil spillage. Note that there are 2 copper crush washers here, that must be replaced or reused on reinstallation. Attatch the chain for the engine to the rear hook. Then remove the 4 14mm bolts holding on the transmission crossmember..it will drop about 4-6".

8) remove engine slowly from the bay. Stop after about 6-9" to remove the 4 12mm bolts from the a/c compressor, and use a wire or bungee cord to tie it up out of the way, it remains in the car, and thus the a/c system is not compromised by the swap.Also put the rear oil cooler line UNDER the d.side motor mount, so it is not pulled up with the engine. Disconnect the main ground wire from the engine/'transmission/starter area. CHeck to be sure all other hoses are disconnected before proceeding.


9) Slowly remove the entire assembly from the car...raise the front, pull it forward, raise the front, repeat. Be careful of the a/c system, oil cooler lines, and the transmission hitting the firewall/heatercore connections on the way out. A friend/spotter is useful here, but not required if you pay attention.


 

Injector Information
Fuel Cut Off Switch & Unflooding Procedures
Rebuilt Engine Start Up and Break In Procedures
N/A to TII Conversion
Automatic to Manual Transmission Conversion,

1986-1988 Pulsation Dampner
Airpump 6 PI

Internal Engine Damage
Coolant Seal Fix
ECU Application List
Engine Removal
Engine Teardown: Longblock to Shortblock
Series 4 to Series 5 Engine Swap
Series 5 to Series 4 Engine Swap
Emissions Removal
Compression Check

Cone Filter/Intake Modification
Electric Fan
Electric 6 Port Conversion
Series 4 turbo engine emissions removal
Series 5 turbo engine emissions removal
Water injection treatment for all rotary engines
Back to Tech Section