Remove hood from car. Remove battery. Remove intake snorkel, air box WITH
airflow meter (disconnect the afm plug), and intake hose.
2) Drain coolant from radiator AND block (hex plug above drivers motor
mount), remove upper radiator hose, fan (use a flathead screwdriver and
a 10mm wrench for this), fan shroud, lower radiator hose and heatercore
hose, and radiator.
3) Remove cruise control if equipped ( you may leave it attatched to the
throttle body), slide charcoal canister up and tie it back out of the
way. Remove (forcefully if necessary) the subzero starting assist bottle
and it's line (can be cut at the engine and left open, the valve does
not open or create a vacuum leak) and throw them away. Disconnect the
vacuum line to the firewall for the brakes and the ground wire from the
transmission to the firewall. Disconnect the air pump/acv exhaust hose,
and the pressure sensor vacuum hose. Disconnect the wiring harness from
the pressure sensor, variable resistor, etc.
4) remove passengers side kick panel cover, and pull back the carpet to
expose a metal panel. Remove the panel (4 10mm screws) and expose the
ecu. Unplug the engine wiring harness from the ecu/car harness, and pull
it through the firewall leaving it connected to the engine as a whole.
There are 2 plugs on the ECU, 1 4 wire white plug in the kick panel (at.
press. sensor), and 2 large orange plugs farther up in the kick panel.
IT is sometimes necessary to break the plastic clips holding these up
inside the car so you can pull them down and gain access to disconnect
them, do not hesitate to do this. On s4 turbo models, there is another
4 wire white plug farther up inside the panel, to the knock control box.
On s5 models, there is no at. press. sensor to disconnect.
5) Disconnect slave cylinder(from transmission, NOT the hose), power steering
lines, oil sending unit wire, heatercore hose on drivers side (be prepared
for more water here), plugwires, throttle cable, fuel lines, wires going
to oilpan sensors, power steering rubber reservoir hose (bottom of pump),
and p/s and a/c control wires. Expect to cut some zipties here. Remove
p/s and a/c belts(to gain access to the oil cooler line later).
6) Disconnect front oil cooler line. Use a *thin wall* adjustable wrench
or 21mm wrench, in combination with a large adjustable wrench, and 1 or
2 long pipes to break it loose. It is important to hold the smaller 21mm
nut stationary while breaking the larger one loose, or damage to the line
can occur. I use a long bar rested on the radiator support for this, while
I work on the larger nut.
7) From this point, there are 2 ways to proceed...pull the transmission
with the engine, or leave it in and pull the engine alone. I am providing
instructions to pull the trans out. I find it much easier to pull the
trans. out of the car with the engine, and do the separating/realignment
outside on the floor (<5 minutes) rather than trying to do so in the
car during reinstallation (30 minutes +). IF you are leaving the trans.
in the car, then most of these steps will not apply.
Put the car on jackstands and remove the exhaust. I do so as a whole from
front to back, but you can do so however you see fit. Remove the shifter
from inside the car. Remove the exhaust shields, and drain the transmission
fluid (unless you have a method to control fluid spillage from the tailshaft).
Disconnect the starter and transmission wiring, but leave the starter
on the tranny. Remove the driveshaft. Unbolt the 14mm nuts on the motor
mounts *inside their round holes on the frame*.
the rear oil cooler line (15/16" fits well)..be prepared for oil
spillage. Note that there are 2 copper crush washers here, that must be
replaced or reused on reinstallation. Attatch the chain for the engine
to the rear hook. Then remove the 4 14mm bolts holding on the transmission
crossmember..it will drop about 4-6".
8) remove engine slowly from the bay. Stop after about 6-9" to remove
the 4 12mm bolts from the a/c compressor, and use a wire or bungee cord
to tie it up out of the way, it remains in the car, and thus the a/c system
is not compromised by the swap.Also put the rear oil cooler line UNDER
the d.side motor mount, so it is not pulled up with the engine. Disconnect
the main ground wire from the engine/'transmission/starter area. CHeck
to be sure all other hoses are disconnected before proceeding.
9) Slowly remove the entire assembly from the car...raise the front, pull
it forward, raise the front, repeat. Be careful of the a/c system, oil
cooler lines, and the transmission hitting the firewall/heatercore connections
on the way out. A friend/spotter is useful here, but not required if you