1. Pedal set with clutch and brake
2. clutch slave cylinder, master cylinder, and lines
3. shifter parts, with boots and shifter bushings
4. driveshaft from 5 speed nonturbo
5. starter from 5speed nonturbo
6. automatic transmission crossmember(from your old auto tranny)
7. crossmember adaptor, see below for instructions on how to make this.
I no longer offer them to the public except in conversions I am performing
8. speedo calibration gear from your old auto tranny(held on the tailshaft
by one 10mm bolt)
9. nonturbo flywheel to fit your year of engine(86-8 or 89-91)
10. clutch parts (disc, PP, TOB, PB)
11. Also consider that most automatic cars use a 3.9 rearend ratio while
most 5sp cars use a 4.1 ratio. Keeping the stock 3.9 will result in slightly
lower acceleration but better mileage and top speed. Swapping to a 4.1
rearend gives normal acceleration but poorer mileage and top speed. IF
you do decide to swap the rearend to the 5sp one (4.1), be sure to keep
the 4.1 (gray) speedo calibration gear in the tranny.
and Installing the AT> 5speed crossmember adaptor:
In the auto-to-5speed conversion writeup it talks about a custom crossmember
adaptor. In the past I made a few of these for customers, but it got to
be too much trouble given that I didn't have a good source of materials.
Now I no longer offer these for sale, I only make them when necessary
for a conversion I am performing in shop. However, I will offer the design
free of charge here, for anyone to make themselves.
I make my adaptors from channel iron. Popular widths are 3" and 4".
Here I am using 4", but 3" is actually just as good. Either
should be available at hardware stores, machine shops, or fabrication
shops. Similar materials can be used so long as they are similar in strength.
How to make it:
Begin by cutting off an 8" long section. I use a torch to cut mine,
you can do so by whatever means you have available. The cut does not need
to be clean. IF you get the length off by a little, it is not a big deal,
anything between 7 and 9 inches is useable.
Find and mark the centerline of the iron along it's length (split it in
half long ways). Now, on this centerline, come off of one end 1.5 inches
and mark an X. This will be the center of one of your holes. From this
X, come out another 5-1/8" (this is very important) and mark another
X, this is the center of your second hole. Drill each hole out to 1/2"
Remove the stock 5speed crossmember from the transmission, leaving only
a large stud sticking down from the trans. case.
Mount the 5sp trans in the
car by bolting it to the engine and using a jack to raise it into position.
The trans should not contact the body anywhere, the shifter should sit
about 3/4" to 1" inside the chassis of the car. The shifter will
sit a little off center.
Remove the old auto crossmember
from the transmission in the same manner as you did the 5 speed one. Bolt
the old auto crossmember to the car's chassis just like it would have
went. You can tighten the bolts down fully. Now get your crossmember adaptor
and hold it up against the trans and mount. You can see what you will
be doing with it now. But you will need to space the tranny off of the
adaptor some. You can do this by either
1) cutting a custom spacer out of your own materials or making them from
a stack of large washers
2) cutting out the stock spacer from the old 5speed crossmember center
bushing. This usually isnt hard to do at all. Keep the large washer with
the spacer, and put them back onto the 5sp trans stud.
Now put the crossmember adaptor on the stud and the nut and washer (the
stock ones that you took off earlier) back on. Snug them down for now.
Move to the auto crossmember. You'll need to use your own bolt and nut
along with one or more large washers on each side to make this connection.
BE sure neither end can slip through the holes. Snug this connection down.
Now, sit back a little ways and be sure the whole thing is pretty much
straight. Make your final checks and then tighten everything down WELL.
The tighter everything is here, the less slack you will have in shifting
when you drive. Finally, I recommend welding a few tacks here and there
to solidify the whole thing and prevent side to side movement under hard
acceleration/shifting/cornering. IF you ever need to remove the trans
in the future, you will simply unbolt the auto crossmember just like you
would have otherwise, and the whole trans will drop just like it would
have stock. Should there ever be a need to swap transmissions, the stud
assembly unbolts from the case as well. THere will never be a need to
break the welds loose.