Parts List:
1. Pedal set with clutch and brake
2. clutch slave cylinder, master cylinder, and lines
3. shifter parts, with boots and shifter bushings
4. driveshaft from 5 speed nonturbo
5. starter from 5speed nonturbo
6. automatic transmission crossmember(from your old auto tranny)
7. crossmember adaptor, see below for instructions on how to make this. I no longer offer them to the public except in conversions I am performing personally.
8. speedo calibration gear from your old auto tranny(held on the tailshaft by one 10mm bolt)
9. nonturbo flywheel to fit your year of engine(86-8 or 89-91)
10. clutch parts (disc, PP, TOB, PB)
11. Also consider that most automatic cars use a 3.9 rearend ratio while most 5sp cars use a 4.1 ratio. Keeping the stock 3.9 will result in slightly lower acceleration but better mileage and top speed. Swapping to a 4.1 rearend gives normal acceleration but poorer mileage and top speed. IF you do decide to swap the rearend to the 5sp one (4.1), be sure to keep the 4.1 (gray) speedo calibration gear in the tranny.

Making and Installing the AT> 5speed crossmember adaptor:
In the auto-to-5speed conversion writeup it talks about a custom crossmember adaptor. In the past I made a few of these for customers, but it got to be too much trouble given that I didn't have a good source of materials. Now I no longer offer these for sale, I only make them when necessary for a conversion I am performing in shop. However, I will offer the design free of charge here, for anyone to make themselves.
 
I make my adaptors from channel iron. Popular widths are 3" and 4". Here I am using 4", but 3" is actually just as good. Either should be available at hardware stores, machine shops, or fabrication shops. Similar materials can be used so long as they are similar in strength.


How to make it:
Begin by cutting off an 8" long section. I use a torch to cut mine, you can do so by whatever means you have available. The cut does not need to be clean. IF you get the length off by a little, it is not a big deal, anything between 7 and 9 inches is useable.
 
Find and mark the centerline of the iron along it's length (split it in half long ways). Now, on this centerline, come off of one end 1.5 inches and mark an X. This will be the center of one of your holes. From this X, come out another 5-1/8" (this is very important) and mark another X, this is the center of your second hole. Drill each hole out to 1/2" diameter.


Remove the stock 5speed crossmember from the transmission, leaving only a large stud sticking down from the trans. case.

Mount the 5sp trans in the car by bolting it to the engine and using a jack to raise it into position. The trans should not contact the body anywhere, the shifter should sit about 3/4" to 1" inside the chassis of the car. The shifter will sit a little off center.

Remove the old auto crossmember from the transmission in the same manner as you did the 5 speed one. Bolt the old auto crossmember to the car's chassis just like it would have went. You can tighten the bolts down fully. Now get your crossmember adaptor and hold it up against the trans and mount. You can see what you will be doing with it now. But you will need to space the tranny off of the adaptor some. You can do this by either
 
1) cutting a custom spacer out of your own materials or making them from a stack of large washers
 
or
 
2) cutting out the stock spacer from the old 5speed crossmember center bushing. This usually isnt hard to do at all. Keep the large washer with the spacer, and put them back onto the 5sp trans stud.
 
Now put the crossmember adaptor on the stud and the nut and washer (the stock ones that you took off earlier) back on. Snug them down for now. Move to the auto crossmember. You'll need to use your own bolt and nut along with one or more large washers on each side to make this connection. BE sure neither end can slip through the holes. Snug this connection down. Now, sit back a little ways and be sure the whole thing is pretty much straight. Make your final checks and then tighten everything down WELL. The tighter everything is here, the less slack you will have in shifting when you drive. Finally, I recommend welding a few tacks here and there to solidify the whole thing and prevent side to side movement under hard acceleration/shifting/cornering. IF you ever need to remove the trans in the future, you will simply unbolt the auto crossmember just like you would have otherwise, and the whole trans will drop just like it would have stock. Should there ever be a need to swap transmissions, the stud assembly unbolts from the case as well. THere will never be a need to break the welds loose.

 

Injector Information
Fuel Cut Off Switch & Unflooding Procedures
Rebuilt Engine Start Up and Break In Procedures
N/A to TII Conversion
Automatic to Manual Transmission Conversion,

1986-1988 Pulsation Dampner
Airpump 6 PI

Internal Engine Damage
Coolant Seal Fix
ECU Application List
Engine Removal
Engine Teardown: Longblock to Shortblock
Series 4 to Series 5 Engine Swap
Series 5 to Series 4 Engine Swap
Emissions Removal
Compression Check

Cone Filter/Intake Modification
Electric Fan
Electric 6 Port Conversion
Series 4 turbo engine emissions removal
Series 5 turbo engine emissions removal
Water injection treatment for all rotary engines
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