Rotary Resurrection - Tech Section
 
93-95 Engine Removal
This writeup will detail engine removal for the FD. There are other ways to proceed, but this is probably the simplest and easiest method for those with limited mechanical knowledge or experience. I recommend that wherever possible you take pictures, label connections, and replace removed bolts and nuts onto their original locations. Since this is a fairly complex job, it is very easy to lose or confuse various parts. For this car, I remove the transmission with the engine. This is because the more complex pull type clutch in the FD requires special procedures to separate from the engine, which are much easier to accomplish outside the vehicle. This also gives you the opportunity to inspect or replace clutch parts and be sure theyre installed properly before being put into the vehicle. IT is certainly possible to leave the trans installed into the car during an engine removal, but it is not much more work to remove it.
 
1)
 
Remove the hood from the car. Place it on a lift or jackstands. Drain oil, coolant, transmission fluid (if removing trans), and remove the battery. Its not a bad idea to charge the battery while it’s out, rebuilds benefit from a nice strong battery to crank them over quickly for initial startup.
 
2)
Remove hood prop rod, intake hoses, and air filter box.
 
3)
Remove battery tray, intercooler hoses,  and remove the AST from the intercooler (disconnect the hoses later on). Unbolt and lift up the a/c driver out of the way of the IC duct.
 
4)
 
Remove intercooler and air duct.
 
5)
 
Unbolt and lay the fusebox out of the way to access the upper radiator hose.
 
6)
 
Remove upper hose from AST and lay it aside. The lower hose will be disconnected later once it’s more accessible.
 
7)
 
Remove a/c lines from crossbar and remove crossbar.
 
8)
Remove lower radiator hose and disconnect heatercore hose from engine.
 
9)
 
Seperate both oil cooler hoses by removing the ¾ round clip holding the 2 sections together and lay apart, be prepared for a little spillage.
 
10)
 
Unbolt upper PS line and lay aside.
 
11)
 
Remove intake elbow (lay emissions canister on bottom aside for now). Disconnect the map sensor vacuum hose (map sensor is mounted to the firewall behind the intake elbow). BE careful not to break the filter inline, or the nipple on the sensor itself.
 
12)
 
Disconnect the cruise control cable and throttle cable from the throttlebody linkage and lay aside. Disconnect the alternator power wire and unplug the plug from the alternator. Pull this sub harness back off of the engine, and disconnect the single wire PS plug from this harness.
 
13)
 
Disconnect the lower PS hose and plug the hole with a large vacuum cap (or drain the fluid). I use an old plug boot with a bolt in the end for this. Lay the hose aside. Disconnect the 3 fuel/emissions hoses from the back of the engine, labeling each one by position.
 
14)
 
Disconnect the wire to the oil pressure sending unit and remove the heatercore hose from the drivers side of the block. IT is not a bad idea to check and replace this hose, as oil from oilchanges weakens it.

ON the passengers side, disconnect the large vacuum hose for the bracke master cylinder and lay it aside. Unbolt the ground clip from the upper intake, and unbolt the harness clip from behind the ABS pump.

 
15)
 
Inside the passenger floorboard, remove the kick panel to gain access to the ecu and harness.
 
16)
 
Disconnect the engine harness plugs: 2 yellow, 1 blue, 1 white, and the 10mm nut holding on a ground clip.
 
17)
 
Pull harness slowly out into the engine bay working from both sides. A long screwdriver or prybar is helpful in working the harness under the ABS unit. IT is okay to bend the harness somewhat during this. Lay it on top of the engine after it is out.
 
18)
 
Get underneath the car and remove the plastic front underbelly pan, motor mount nuts (protruding from the bottom of the subframe) and the aluminum underbelly pan under the transmission. Remove the downpipe-to-midpipe bolts and gasket, and disconnect the airpump feed to the main cat/midpipe (if still equipped). Now remove the rear aluminum crossbar (under midpipe/main cat) and unbolt the main cat/midpipe from the catback.
 
19)
 
Now remove the front aluminum crossbar and disconnect the starter main power wire and small ignition trigger wire from the solenoid.

IF the car is going to be left stationary, then the driveshaft and catback can be left in place during the swap, just let it fall out of the transmission tailshaft during removal, and during installation get underneath to be sure it gets inserted properly. IF the car must be moved after the engine and trans are removed, it’s a good idea to remove the driveshaft to prevent damage and stress on it, since it will be left hanging after the trans is removed. To get the DS out, you must partially or fully loosen/remove the catback to allow access to the bolts. IF you’re removing the DS then you can remove the catback/bolts/nuts right now, or you can wait until later on. It’s necessary to have the ebrake off and trans out of gear to allow rotation of the driveshaft.

Inside the car, remove the console trim and remove the shifter from the transmission. There are 3 10mm bolts holding it in. Automatic cars need to disconnect their shifter linkage from the trans selector arm instead.

 
20)
 
Remove the PPF bolts at the transmission, there are a total of 4. The trans will drop a couple of inches, and the PPF may want to drop considerably more, so be prepared. IT is okay to let them both hang wherever they will. You want to get enough clearance between the trans and PPF to get the trans out safely.
 
21)
 
Attatch engine hoist and begin slowly pulling the engine up and forward. Due to the design of the engine bay, it’s normal for it to be a VERY tight fit and in fact the intake will likely want to rest on the firewall at some point. Take as much care as possible to keep damage from occurring from interference here. Sometimes a medium size prybar is helpful in maintaining and gaining clearance in various tight areas. Assistants are also helpful at this time. Getting the motor mounts out of their subframe slots is the most challenging area. Also be sure to adjust and clear the a/c line in front of the engine on the way out. BE sure the downpipe flange clears the exhaust guards on the floorpan. Slowly continue to pull the engine out, and stop about halfway.
 
22)
 
Disconnect the harness to the coils, the single wire coolant temp sensor plug, the ground strap on the bottom of the block, the oil level sensor on the oilpan, and the a/c trigger wire. Lay the harness out of the way.
 
23)
 
Pull engine up a little more, enough to get to the slave cylinder. Remove it and lay it aside, leaving the hydraulic hose connected.
 
24)

 
Unbolt the a/c compressor and tie it aside with a piece of wire or bungee cord.
 
25)

 
Pull the engine up some more. The last thing holding it should be the wiring harness clip on the side of the block where the tranny and starter mate up. Disconect this and then remove the engine.
 
Rotary Resurrection - Tech Section
 
Rotary Resurrection
is located in
Morristown, TN,
1 hour east of Knoxville.
At times I get so many emails I stay a week or more behind. Please do not send duplicates asking "did you get my last email?". This only serves to slow the process down even more.
Swizzotec Arts.com
Rotary Engine Professionals interested in having an ad on this website contact us online.
Home | FAQs | Engines | Used Parts | Tech Menu | Gallery | Contact                Main | Links | About
© Copyright 2006, Rotary Resurrection. All rights reserved.
Designed by
Visit Swizzotec Arts at INeedArts.com