Non transferrable, valid for original purchaser ONLY.

Absolutely no cash refunds, full or partial.

All warranty is void if the engine BLOCK is disassembled in part or full before being returned to me in the event of a claim.

Warranty may require that the customer be responsible for some or all of the replacement parts cost depending on circumstances, though I will generally never charge for labor under warranty.

ALL warranty work MUST be returned to me at the customer's cost for repair. Under no circumstance will I pay or reimburse in part or full for tansportation or shipping costs to the customer or anyone else. Nor will I pay out of pocket expenses for repairs performed or parts purchased elsewhere that would be covered under my warranty. Customers should consider this before making a purchase.

1 year from date of purchase (pickup/shipment) regardless of mileage if you are doing your own installation...

OR

18 months from date of pickup for those who elect to have me install their engine into their car. The engine build is the same, however I am more comfortable warrantying an engine I have personally installed and started.

Engine will not lose coolant INTERNALLY as a result of a coolant seal leak. Engines overheated by the customer may not qualify for warranty coverage.

Engine will not consume excess oil or produce excess smoke as a result of faulty oil control rings. Note that excess smoke can be a result of contaminated exhaust, bad turbo, rich fuel mixture, improperly vented PCV system, or faulty OMP/injectors, and none of these faults are covered even if said parts were installed by me. Some smoke on cold startup is normal for any rotary, new, used, rebuilt, etc. Some oil consumption is normal for any rotary engine, which is oil injected.

Engine will maintain good oil pressure. I define this as 25psi or higher at idle, and 40psi or higher at all other rpm ranges. Stock (or aftermarket, in some cases) electric gauges are not to be trusted for troubleshooting of this sort, readings should be taken with a mechanical gauge to ensure accuracy.

Engine will maintain good compression. The factory service manual defines 85psi as the lowest acceptable limit for compression in a running engine. Rebuilds are sometimes (depending on housing condition, which is unique to each engine build) low compression before breakin, so please allow a full and proper breakin before becoming concerned with compression readings. Most engines break in well above 100psi. Note that apex seal breakage is not covered here, since new seals can generally only be broken by abuse, improper tuning/setup, or improper breakin, none of which are my fault.

I do NOT warranty any items I install outside the short block whether they were originally yours or I sell them to you. This may include manifolds, turbos, injectors, wiring, water pumps, alternators, etc.

I do NOT warranty any issues regarding installation of the engine that I perform. For instance, if you have me install an engine into your car and later your original radiator hose busts, or you have an electrical problem, or an oil pan leak, I am not liable. Any problems with an installation I perform must be noted at or before pickup, and will be dealt with at that time. Removing the car/engine from my shop constitutes acceptance and approval of the installation.

If you wish to return an engine for repair, shipping is at all times the responsibility of the customer. OR, stated a different way, at no time will I be responsible for paying shipping.

If you are semi-local to me, I may give you the option to bring the entire car for repair with the engine still installed even if I did not install it the first time. Under these circumstances I would remove the engine, repair it, and reinstall it at no cost, provided the failure falls under the above warranty terms. If it is found otherwise, labor and/or parts cost may accrue to the owner. This option depends largely upon current workload.