For those with little extra time or those without mechanical abilities required to master the rotary engine control systems, I offer removal and installation along with rebuild of the shortblock. IN these cases the customer will transport their car to my location and drop it off along with the rebuild parts deposit. This must be carefully scheduled since I have very limited storage space for entire vehicles (as opposed to shortblocks being shipped in), and there will often be times I cannot accept your vehicle for installation for several weeks due to current workload or vehicles already being stored here.

I will remove the engine, tear it down, and evaluate it's condition. The customer will be notified of any issues with the internals or the external accessories, that require attention or replacement, and will be offered appropriate options before any unauthorized work is performed. The block rebuild is performed as specified, and the externals are reassembled using new gaskets in most areas.

The assembled engine is then installed into the car, coolant and oil are refilled, and the car is started and test driven 10-100 miles (depending on my available time) to check for leaks or other issues. For this reason, I generally request that the car have some form of registration/tags to avoid issues with the local law enforcement, as well as roadworthy wheels/tires, brakes, exhaust, etc. Once the vehicle is deemed ready to be picked up, I request that this be done within 2 weeks or less, due to the limited storage space, and other customers waiting behind you to bring their car. Those cars left here for a longer period of time (waiting on you to send deposit, ship parts, or pick it up) may be charged a storage fee.

During the installation, replacement parts can be installed at no extra cost, provided I would have them apart during the course of the teardown. Any rubber or plastic part, or normal wear item, should be considered for replacement during this time, these parts are generally not included in rebuild kits. This list is not all inclusive, but is a great starting point. Though most of these parts can be reused with some success, failure of any one of these parts could very well lead to the early demise of your new engine which will not be covered under warranty. I could almost guarantee that anyone who replaces all of these parts along with a rebuild will have a reliable car for years to come.

••		Water pump (oem or aftermarket)
••		thermostat (OEM mazda only)
••		oil metering pump feed lines to engine (often break or are already broken)
••		vacuum hoses, check valves (check or replace), and solenoids (check and replace as necessary) for those running emissions
••		radiator hoses
••		heater core coolant supply hoses
••		throttle body and other engine coolant hoses (these are pre bent hoses generally only available from mazda, and sometimes regular straight hose cannot be used due to tight bends)
••		fuel injector o-rings
••		aftermarket oil pan (due to stock oil pan leakage and warpage)
••		engine wiring harness (stock ones are usually very brittle and can cause problems)
••		clean or replace fuel injectors and pintle caps
••		fuel pulsation dampner on primary (lower) fuel rail
••		motor mounts
••		accessory belts (I recommend dayco belts, though expensive they last longer and grip well)
••		clutch kit with pilot bearing and seal
••		spark plugs
••		downpipe for turbo engines
••		turbo replace or rebuild
••		port wastegate on turbo engines running aftermarket exhaust

Other maintenance items to consider for a reliable car, not necessarily related to engine install:

••		fuel filter
••		fuel pump
••		check and possibly drain/clean gas tank
••		clutch slave and master cylinder and soft clutch hose
••		radiator (recommend all metal aftermarket replacement due to deterioration of stock plastic endtanks)
••		exhaust components and gaskets
••		transmission rear seal