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| 13) |
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remove the fuel line from the primary rail |
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| 14) |
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remove the 3 bolts holding down the vacuum rail |
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| 15) |
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disconnect the purge valve hose |
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| 16) |
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unplug the solenoids |
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| 17) |
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disconnect 2 vacuum hoses at lower intake manifold |
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| 18) |
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remove vacuum rack |
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| 19) |
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remove oil metering pump vacuum hoses. Unless you plan to convert to premix, you’ll need to replace these with new hose (5/32”) as this will get reinstalled later and the old hoses are too brittle most of the time. |
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| 20) |
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remove vacuum hose from LIM nipple. Use a 5/32” vacuum cap to block the hole. |
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| 21) |
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| Now is a good time to check and/or replace the pulsation dampner on the lower fuel rail. There is a writeup elsewhere on the website tech section about this. |
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| 22) |
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remove the front and rear coolant hoses. |
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| 23) |
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cap them using a large vacuum cap. I inject a fair amount of ultra black RTV into the nipple before using the cap, and then I clamp over the cap. A stronger fix is to use jb-stick-weld packed into the hole. IF you do this then a cap and clamp is not necessary. |
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| 24) |
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reinstall OMP vacuum hoses |
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| 25) |
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remove and block off EGR valve. |
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| 26) |
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cap lower oil tube nipple. The upper one must remain vented, either to atmosphere, or to an oil catch can. |
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| 27) |
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unplug and remove ACV. |
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| 28) |
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remove gasket, wagon-wheel looking check valve, studs, install the blockoff plate with liberal amounts of sealant, and block off the 2 vacuum nipples with caps. Now is also a good time to check your 6 ports for free movement. IF a problem is found, it’s only a few minutes work to remove the lower manifold and resolve the issue. |
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| 29) |
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Remove air pump and brackets. You might encounter slippage without the air pump belt to spin the fan, and if this happens you’ll want to invest in a dual alternator pulley and 2 new belts.
Bolt down the wiring harness ground to the top of the rear rotorhousing. Make sure both parts are cleaned to bare metal and tighten it well. |
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| 27) |
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On the upper intake, remove and block off the cold start valve. |
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| 30) |
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Block off 2 vacuum ports on front intake. |
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| 31) |
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remove BAC, hose, air pipe, and 12mm bolts |
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| 32) |
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block off BAC and vacuum ports. |
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| 33) |
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block off 2 vacuum nipples on back of intake. |
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| 34) |
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block off additional vacuum nipples on back of intake, if open… |
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| 35) |
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remove secondary fuel rail |
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| 36) |
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remove throttle body |
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| 37) |
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remove vacuum actuator |
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| 38) |
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remove thermowax |
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| 39) |
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remove dashpot |
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| 40) |
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remove cold idle cam and spring, replace stop plate |
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| 41) |
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remove double throttle butterfly plates |
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| 42) |
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remove shaft and fill holes with jb-stick-weld. Reinstall throttle body and fuel rail. |
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| 43) |
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connect lower fuel line and clamp. Use 5/16” fuel injection line, about 30”. This hose goes to the fuel filter. |
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| 44) |
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cut and lay in the upper fuel line before installing the manifold. This line goes to the firewall fuel line. |
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| 45) |
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bolt on UIM, being sure to get a good seal out of the gasket, either using a new one, or a thin layer of sealant on the old one. |
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| 46) |
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| connect o2 sensor and rear fuel line with a hose clamp |
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| 47) |
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remove vacuun cap and run vacuum hose to fuel pressure regulator. |
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| 48) |
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connect TPS and front fuel line with clamp. |
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| 49) |
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connect secondary fuel injectors |
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| 50) |
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connect OMP rod and vacuum hose to manifold. |
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| 51) |
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connect IAS plug |
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| 52) |
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replace intake elbow |
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| 53) |
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| Bump your idle up a bit (8mm locknut with flat head set screw inside on top of throttle body) and fire it up. Adjust idle after the engine is warm. |
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