Rotary Resurrection - Tech Section
 
S5 86-88 NON- TURBO ENGINE EMISSIONS REMOVAL

 

1)
 
Pictured complete engine minus a/c and p/s, and out of the car (though this can certainly be done in the car). The coolant needs to be at least partially drained.
 
2)
Remove intake elbow.
 
3)
Unplug secondary fuel injectors, throttle position sensor, and remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
 
4)
 
Remove the vacuum hoses from the front of the dynamic chamber by the throttle body, and remove the pin and the OMP rod from the TB.
 
5)
 
Loosen the 12mm bolt holding up the dynamic chamber, and remove the BAC valve hose and plug
 
6)
 
Unplug the IAS and the AWS plugs as well as the vacuum hose. remove the AWS valve and the 12mm bolts underneath
 
7)
 
Remove the 2 vacuum hoses on back of the dynamic chamber.
 
8)
 
Remove the coolant hose from the thermowax.
 
9)
 
Unplug the o2 sensor, remove the rear fuel line, and the vacuum rail mounting bolt.
 
10)
  Remove the front fuel line.
 
11)
 
remove 4 nuts and 1 bolt, and pull off the entire upper intake with throttle body and fuel rail.
 
12)
 
remove the remaining 10mm bolt holding down the vacuum rail in the front.
 
13)
remove the fuel line from the primary rail
 
14)
 
remove the 3 bolts holding down the vacuum rail
 
15)
 
disconnect the purge valve hose
 
16)
 
unplug the solenoids
 
17)
 
disconnect 2 vacuum hoses at lower intake manifold
 
18)
 
remove vacuum rack
 
19)
 
remove oil metering pump vacuum hoses. Unless you plan to convert to premix, you’ll need to replace these with new hose (5/32”) as this will get reinstalled later and the old hoses are too brittle most of the time.
 
20)
 
remove vacuum hose from LIM nipple. Use a 5/32” vacuum cap to block the hole.
 
21)
Now is a good time to check and/or replace the pulsation dampner on the lower fuel rail. There is a writeup elsewhere on the website tech section about this.
 
22)
  remove the front and rear coolant hoses.
 
23)
 
cap them using a large vacuum cap. I inject a fair amount of ultra black RTV into the nipple before using the cap, and then I clamp over the cap. A stronger fix is to use jb-stick-weld packed into the hole. IF you do this then a cap and clamp is not necessary.
 
24)
 
reinstall OMP vacuum hoses
 
25)
 
remove and block off EGR valve.
 
26)
  cap lower oil tube nipple. The upper one must remain vented, either to atmosphere, or to an oil catch can.
 
27)
  unplug and remove ACV.
 
28)
  remove gasket, wagon-wheel looking check valve, studs, install the blockoff plate with liberal amounts of sealant, and block off the 2 vacuum nipples with caps. Now is also a good time to check your 6 ports for free movement. IF a problem is found, it’s only a few minutes work to remove the lower manifold and resolve the issue.
 
29)

Remove air pump and brackets. You might encounter slippage without the air pump belt to spin the fan, and if this happens you’ll want to invest in a dual alternator pulley and 2 new belts.

Bolt down the wiring harness ground to the top of the rear rotorhousing. Make sure both parts are cleaned to bare metal and tighten it well.

 
27)
  On the upper intake, remove and block off the cold start valve.
 
30)
  Block off 2 vacuum ports on front intake.
 
31)
  remove BAC, hose, air pipe, and 12mm bolts
 
32)
  block off BAC and vacuum ports.
 
33)
  block off 2 vacuum nipples on back of intake.
 
34)
  block off additional vacuum nipples on back of intake, if open…
 
35)
  remove secondary fuel rail
 
36)
  remove throttle body
 
37)
  remove vacuum actuator
 
38)
  remove thermowax
 
39)
  remove dashpot
 
40)
  remove cold idle cam and spring, replace stop plate
 
41)
  remove double throttle butterfly plates
 
42)
  remove shaft and fill holes with jb-stick-weld. Reinstall throttle body and fuel rail.
 
43)
  connect lower fuel line and clamp. Use 5/16” fuel injection line, about 30”. This hose goes to the fuel filter.
 
44)
  cut and lay in the upper fuel line before installing the manifold. This line goes to the firewall fuel line.
 
45)
  bolt on UIM, being sure to get a good seal out of the gasket, either using a new one, or a thin layer of sealant on the old one.
 
46)
connect o2 sensor and rear fuel line with a hose clamp
 
47)
  remove vacuun cap and run vacuum hose to fuel pressure regulator.
 
48)
  connect TPS and front fuel line with clamp.
 
49)
  connect secondary fuel injectors
 
50)
  connect OMP rod and vacuum hose to manifold.
 
51)
  connect IAS plug
 
52)
  replace intake elbow
 
53)
Bump your idle up a bit (8mm locknut with flat head set screw inside on top of throttle body) and fire it up. Adjust idle after the engine is warm.
Rotary Resurrection - Tech Section
 
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