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| ELECTRIC FAN INSTALLATION AND WIRING |
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First
I should say that there are probably very few efans out there
that cool as well, or better, than the stocker. The stock fan
is automatic adjusting, and is almost bulletproof. The stock shroud
covers 100% of the radiator, whereas most e-fans will not. The
main reason to remove the stock fan is if it is defective, or
to make more room in the engine bay. It isn’t much of a
performance gain, nor is it more efficient, in most cases.
When installing an electric fan on a 1 or 2gen, I use junkyard
fans from 91-96 Ford Escorts. These are cheap, plentiful, long
lasting, and move a lot of air (as much or more as the stocker)
without taxing a stock charging system too much. The good thing
about these is that they fit the stock FB and FC radiator well,
and they are shrouded to cover most of the surface area, thus
cooling the whole area, not just the center like a cheap autozone
or summit fan. Others have used ford taurus and pontiac fiero
fans to name a few, but these are somewhat more obscure. This
writeup focuses on the installation of the escort fan, but can
be used for just about any e-fan. Most of the escort fans are
2/3 speed, some are only single speed. For the 2 speed fans I
use the lowest setting which moves plenty of air but draws little
current. I set my fans up to run anytime the key is in the ON
position, without a thermoswitch. Again, **in my experience**,
with a healthy stock charging system, you will experience no charging
problems with the fan running constantly. Adding a thermoswitch
is possible, but I personally don't like them because of inaccuracy,
as well as the fact that this just adds another link to the circuit
that can fail later causing major problems. IF you wish to add
a thermoswitch, do so in the 12vdc+ trigger wire.
Securing the fan to the radiator is pretty straightforward...I
use large zipties to the sides of the radiator frame for this.
You may have to trim a piece of plastic from the top edge, and
drill a hole on the passenger side of the fan...I use the holes
where the stock shroud used to bolt to for my zipties. Two ties
hold the fan very well, but you can go further if you feel the
need. |
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| 1) |
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Find the power
wires for the fan...one will be a ground (black) and the other(s)
power leads. The orange is usually low speed (the one we'll
be using) and the yellow high speed. Wire colors vary by year.
If in doubt, ground the black wire and run a test wire from
the battery + terminal to each of these power wires to find
out which is high and which is low...note and use the low
wire. Strip insulation off of the ground and low power wire. |
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| 2) |
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I
use a standard automotive 12v 4 prong relay for this application.
You can use a spare stock relay from a partscar (shown here)
or an aftermarket replacement available at auto parts stores
such as headlight or foglight relay. These have 4 prongs parallel
to each other. On the side is a circuit diagram. When looking
at the prongs with the "tab" facing up, the right
2 prongs represent the trigger side (one gets grounded, one
gets 12v+, and this switches the other half of the relay on)
and the 2 on the left represent the load side. What a relay
allows you to do is use a low amperage trigger wire (say from
a switch, computer, etc. that should not carry much current)
to operate an accessory that requires a large current flow.
The load side gets connected to the battery or fusebox (a
high amperage supply source) and the accessory + lead that
you are powering. When the trigger side makes a circuit (you
flip your switch or whatever) the load side connects the accessory
to it's high amp power supply and it runs. |
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| 3) |
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You're going
to need some decent wire (I use all black so it doesnt stand
out in the engine bay), something about 16-14 gauge. And several
connectors, so buy a variety pack. Cut all the wires and install
the connectors first to avoid confusion. These instructions
are mainly for 2gen cars, but can be easily adapted to 1gens.
Here are the wires you'll make:
-16" length with 1 female spade terminal and one female
butt connector
-12" length with 1 female spade terminal and one male
spade terminal
-32" length with 1 ring terminal and 1 female spade connector
The following 2 wires will be joined together by a single
large ring terminal (10-12 gauge connector):
-16" length with one female butt connector on one end,
the other inserted into the large ring terminal
-8" length with one female spade terminal on one end,
the other inserted into the large ring terminal
Now crimp the ring terminal. |
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| 4) |
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Locate the green
6 prong connector by the leading coil. This will supply our
trigger side 12v+, which is an ignition lead from the ecu.
Find the TAB on one side. In the terminal adjacent to that
tab, insert the male end of the shortest single wire. The
other end goes to the relay, with the TAB on top, this wire
goes to either of the right 2 terminals on the relay. |
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| 5) |
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Find your fan's
power supply wire. Use the 16" wire here. INsert the
power wire into the bullet connector and crimp firmly, and
plug the other end into one of the LEFT hand terminals on
the relay. Either one. |
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| 6) |
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Now get your
2 wires joined into 1. Pick a good grounding spot, I use one
of the headlight bolts. Put the large ring terminal on this
ground and tighten well. Now run the shorter of the 2 wires
and plug it into the relay, on the RIGHT side remaining terminal. |
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| 7) |
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With the other
end, connect this butt connector to your fan ground wire securely. |
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| 8) |
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With the remaining
wire, tap into the main fusebox in the engine bay. Remove
the 10mm nut closest the fender, and loosen the opposing one.
Pull the box toward the front of the car, and open the door
on the side. Loosen the 10mm bolt, **being cautious not to
let your tools touch the chassis**. Slide the ring terminal
under the bolt with the other ring terminal, and tighten it
back down, Close the door, and reinstall the fusebox. The
good thing about drawing power here is that you are pulling
power from the other side of the 80A main fuse...if there
is ever a problem with the circuit it will likely blow this
fuse, which will also kill the car. This is a good way to
prevent overheating from your fan not working. Of course,
if the fan motor itself dies, the fuse will not blow and your
car will still overheat. IF you don't want to use the 80A
main fuse, you can install a fuse of your own elsewhere in
this block and tap in there. |
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| 9) |
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Carefully connect
the other end of this wire (remember it is now LIVE) to the
remaining LEFT hand terminal on the relay. Tuck the relay
and the wires down under the battery out of sight. The engine
bay looks stock. Test your fan by switching your key ON. IT
should run, and should blow air toward the engine. IT should
never run when the key is off. |
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Rotary
Resurrection - Tech Section |
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NOT ACCEPTING
any new work
until
March 1,
at which time I will
accept 4-5 new jobs.
Please contact me then.
In the meantime,
I am not maintaining
a "wait list" or
"contact me when" list. |
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Rotary Engine Professionals interested in having an ad on this website contact us online. |
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