to ship your engine:
Please consult with me before shipping anything in to be sure I have time/space to accept your engine, and have arrangements to recieve your deposit and specifications.
I allow customers to ship their engines themselves and pay actual shipping costs to the carrier (not to me) rather than charge an inflated flat rate shipping charge like most other shops, and though this usually requires more involvement on the part of the customer, it is more fair to everyone involved and usually saves the customer some money.
My primary recommended carrier is R&L Carriers, www.gorlc.com . They are very easy to work with, and usually cheaper than everyone else. They service the entire US except alaska, hawaii, nevada, california, oregon, and wash. state. To obtain a rate quote, go to their website and click "rate quote". Enter your zip as origin and 37814 as destination. Select class 85 and enter the weight of the shipment including pallet weight. A completely stripped shortblock (see ENGINE OPTIONS page for definition and pics) will weigh around 220lb palleted. A complete longblock minus a/c, p/s, and clutch, will usually weigh 350-400 palleted depending on year and model. The rate given can vary on a daily/weekly basis with gas prices, and is for one way shipping. It also assumes that residential pickup or delivery is not required, which raises the quote $30 per occurence. Making the exchange at a business address or at their local terminal (list of terminals is on their website) is acceptable. You can also call your local terminal and discuss the possibility of meeting one of their drivers at a business location in your area to make the exchange and avoid residential fees. No account is necessary to ship with this carrier. To fill out the bill of lading, you'll need my address/contact info as well as other information, please email me requesting this information after pre-arranging the engine build with me, I will reply with a document containing the appropriate info. Or, if you wish, I can complete this form online for you and email it to you (.pdf format) to print and use. IN this case I require your name/address/phone information.
For those not serviced by R&L, my secondary recommended carrier is ABF, www.abf.com . This carrier serves the west coast states as well, but their rates are often higher for non account holders. Because of this, if you require shipment with this carrier, I recommend we use my account to obtain a decent rate. Since I am the account holder, they require payment from me, not you as the customer. This means that you must pay the shipping cost up front to me before the engine arrives here, as well as your engine parts deposit. To obtain a rate quote please email me with your zipcode and whether this will be a residential pickup, business pickup, or dock dropoff (there is a list of terminals and addresses on their website for your reference). I will obtain the quote based upon my account discount, and if you elect to follow through I will supply the information you need to make the shipment, please email me at that time.
IF you have a carrier you are familiar with already, you are welcome to use them for shipping to/from me. I do not require residential dropoff/pickup for my end, even though I work from home. I usually arrange to meet the local drivers here in town at a business location to avoid extra charges. IF your carrier does not allow this and requires me to pick up at their loading dock, I will require extra funds for gas to/from there and time lost at the shop. IF using your own carrier you'll need my address/contact info as well as other information, please email me requesting this information after pre-arranging the engine build with me, I will reply with a document containing the appropriate info.
As for physically preparing the engine for shipment, you need to locate a pallet to use. I strongly prefer the smallest pallet that the engine will safely sit on for ease of loading and unloading. Please do not use a junk pallet or something you built out of scrap, since I often unload these by hand with the local driver. Used or irregular/damaged pallets are often available behind department or grocery stores, just ask a manager if they have any they plan to throw away (they usually cannot use irregular or lightly damaged pallets and will give you these). Sit the engine flat on the pallet in the center. IF shipping a complete longblock, you may want to use some small pieces of cut 2x4 to form a cradle for the oilpan and stabilize the engine, or you can lay the engine flat on the flywheel. BE SURE the engine is completely dry of any oil (in the case of a longblock) or coolant, the block's coolant drain is on the drivers side of the intermediate iron, an extended hex bolt where the motor mount attatches.
No crate is required for the engine, this would incur extra weight charges. Secure it tightly using (in order of preference) shrinkwrap, cargo/motorcycle tiedowns/straps, banding, or rope. You should be able to stand the skid partly on it's side and the engine should not move more than 2 or 3 inches when properly secured. No parts of the engine should hang down into the pallet where the forks will be inserted.
Here are a couple examples: