Rotary Resurrection - Tech Section

Specifically for Rotary Resurrection Rebuilds:
Once a fresh rebuild is assembled and installed there are a couple of things to do before trying to make it run. Here is an outline, as well as breakin recommendations. These can apply to any rebuild, professional or self-built, though this writeup assumes that rotorhousings were reused in moderate to good condition. It is also recommended to have a fuel cutoff switch installed before trying to start a rebuild, as it will want to flood every time it is shut off.

Remove coil to distributor wires and unplug the 2-wire plug on the leading coil underhood (if working on a carbed or modified model disable fuel and spark to prevent starting).
Crank for 10 seconds at a time, once every 10 seconds, at least 3 times, to prime the oil system and build oil pressure before startup. You can usually see 20-30psi of oil pressure during cranking. DO NOT START the engine before verifying oil pressure/flow exists. IF your stock gauge is questionable, use a mechanical gauge to verify, or loosen your oil filter and check for oil there.
Inject some oil into the lower plug holes of each chamber to help build compression for startup. Fresh rebuilds with old housings are very low compression initially. IF I built your engine, this has already been done for you.
Make preparations to idle the engine up before startup. A rebuild will usually not consider idling normally for the first few hours. Use the hard idle set screw(on throttle body by linkages, 8mm locknut with flathead setscrew inside, covered by factory jb weld) to adjust the throttle somewhat open at idle, a few turns are necessary. You want the rebuild to idle at around 1500rpm for the first day or more. IF you don't do this ahead of time, and you're by yourself, youll be stuck inside the car holding the gas instead of outside checking for leaks and such, and if you stop the engine it'll be hard to get started again.
A battery charger or external jump(another car) is sometimes helpful in starting a rebuild, as old or partially discharged batteries sometimes lack the strength to really kick over an engine and build enough compression to start. A strong charge is a must here.
Be prepared for smoke…there is assembly lube in the engine, which will be burned out in the form of smoke. Expect this to get into your exhaust and smoke can remain for up to 8 hours afterwards until it is all burned out slowly.

Be prepared to watch for leaks…oil lines, coolant hoses, gaskets, and other connections should be examined for leaks. Youll also want to keep an eye on the gauges…oil pressure, water temperature, voltage, etc.

Once it is running and youre satisfied everything is stable, set the idle to around 1500rpm and let it be. Since compression is constantly changing, there isn't much use in adjusting and readjusting idle and TPS settings until breakin is almost complete, as the settings will change almost daily. Right now, the more you can drive it, the better. It is helpful for the first few hours to just let it idle in the driveway, if you cannot drive it around for whatever reason.
Breakin should be completed as follows. Keep rpms at or under 4000 until 1000 miles, gradually work to redline by 2000 miles, oil changes at 500 and 2000 miles.
Great improvements in starting, idle quality and overall smoothness/power will begin occurring immediately, but most improvement will be reached by 1500 miles. By the time the engine reaches 2000 miles, it is basically broken in and can be treated as you wish within reason.
Rotary Resurrection
is located in
Morristown, TN,
1 hour east of Knoxville.
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