Rotary Resurrection - Engine Building
 
ENGINE BUILDING

**Please refer to the tech section writeup “rotorhousing wear guide” for illustrations of the wear discussed here.

Though I have the ability to rebuild early 13b and 12a engines, I rarely do so. This is mainly because your core, or most any core you could find, would produce some poor housings with much wear on them. Since I reuse housings for my rebuilds, this presents a problem. Rather than rebuild an engine with questionable housings, I prefer not to rebuild them at all unless new or like new housings can be used. These 85 and prior housings wear significantly more than the later housings with equivalent mileage, so it’s very difficult to find housings I’d consider reuseable. Because of this, I have no core parts for these engines. I also don’t rebuild 12a’s unless you wish to supply new or like new rotorhousings at your own cost. When asked, I usually recommend that 12a owners convert to a 13b, using the guidelines below for an updated hybrid block.

I do rebuild the early 13b’s, however I use many 86+ parts to build a hybrid block depending on the requirements for that engine. The 86+ parts are generally in better condition, are easier and cheaper to find/buy, and are almost always upgrades from the earlier parts, so there is no downside to this mod.

Generally, I will use 86-88 6 port irons, and 86-88 nonturbo rotorhousings, in the early 13b builds. I will reuse the original rotating assembly (counterweight, rotors, e-shaft, and flywheel) from the early engine, unless the customer wishes to step up to the later, lighter rotating assemblies from the 86-88 nonturbo, or 89-91 nonturbo at an extra cost. IN either case, the original front cover and oilpan is retained on the new block, so that the engine bolts up like stock. All external parts will bolt up just as if stock as well, with perhaps a minor modification being necessary here and there due to casting differences.

The Build:
All of my engines are built on a per-order basis, meaning that I do not have any stock on the shelf. There is approximately a 2-5 week wait between the time I receive your initial deposit and the time I ship the engine back out.

ALL of my engines receive the following new parts:

••
Atkins 3mm 2pc apex seals
••  
OEM mazda corner seals/plugs, 93-95 corner seal springs
••  
OEM mazda internal coolant seals and dowelpin/tensionbolt o-rings necessary for the shortblock internals
••  
side seals and side seal springs
••  
Atkins viton oil control o-rings and e-shaft thermal pellet replacement for stock oil thermal pellet
••  
Mazda OEM front and rear main seals


This leaves apex springs (short and long), metal oil control ring/scrapers, and oil control springs, as the only rotor seals being reused in the standard build. Main and rotor bearings are also reused whenever possible, because it is my opinion that a moderately worn original bearing is still superior to a new bearing in this application. All other minor hardware and major core components are also reused in the build unless worn or damaged. Should any additional parts NOT on the above list be required or requested for your build, your cost will go up to cover those additional parts.


If your engine requires hard part replacement (iron plates, rotors, housings) these are replaced from my own core stock (if available) at extra cost to the customer, usually $100-200 per part depending on year/model/condition/availability.

All engines are also painted, AT NO ADDITIONAL COST, in an alternating paint scheme, irons in black (or another color of your choosing) and rotorhousings/front covers in gunmetal (or another color of your choosing).

This gunmetal is a change from my traditional paint scheme, and I’m not aware of any other supplier in the industry using it. This combo seems to be more impervious to heat and dirt, so I feel it makes for a cleaner looking engine bay after a little time has passed. The silver is still available, if you wish to have this instead. IF you wish, you can choose other colors or schemes for your engine (anything readily available in engine paint colors). Keep in mind light colors do not fair well in an engine bay for more than a few months...dark is the best choice. Painting the whole block a single color usually does not look too good, but I will do whatever you instruct.

Rotary Resurrection - Welcome
 
Rotary Resurrection
is located in
Morristown, TN,
1 hour east of Knoxville.
At times I get so many emails I stay a week or more behind. Please do not send duplicates asking "did you get my last email?". This only serves to slow the process down even more.
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